Improvement in tailors  measures



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No. 166,257. Tailors" Measure- Patented Aug. 3,1875.

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IIMIIMMV- llllhhhllllfhlsllflllll N-PETERS. FHDTO-UTHDGRPNER,WASHINGTON. D C.

UNITED STATES;

NPACLHNTY OFFIOH iJoHnfs.` OHAnoH, OF; DAYTON, OHIO.

iMPR'ovEMENT |N 'rAlLoRs MEASURES.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. [66,25% dated August 3,1875; application .tiled February. 4, 1875.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, JOHN S. CHAROH, of thecity of Dayton, in the State of Ohio, have invented a Coat-Measure, usedby tailors in cutting coats, of which the following is a specificationThe nature of my invention consists lin constructing an apparatus `ofmetallic plates adapted to the person iii such manner that accuratemeasurements are obtained by which a perfectly-fitting garment may beproduced with an absolute certainty, the apparatus having orifices andnumbered lines thereon from which exact measurements can be accuratelynoted.

The accompanying drawing is an elevation of the apparatus for measuring.

G represents a metallic strip of brass, the surface being divided bymarks. indicating inches and fractions thereof, the inch-marks beingnumbered. As different sizes of the apparatus are used the length isadapted to each size. At the left end of this measure or tape the buttono is secured, and this enters slots in the opposite end of the measure,these slots corresponding to the inch-marks of the measure. Upon thismeasure are placed two slides, M, which embrace the front and rearshoulder-plates A and B. All of these parts move freely within theslides.' The measure C gives the length in inches about the breast. D isa measure constructed identically as that described, but has no directconnection with the other parts, and is used as a waist-measure. Whenused it is put on over the other parts of the apparatus, and theadvantage over the ordinary tape is that it preserves a directhorizontal line. H is a metallic strip constructed as heretoforedescribed for a back measure, and is placed vertically along the centerof the back, beneath the' breast and waist measure, which stays it inposition, and is the only connection between this and the other parts. Ais a metallic plate of the forni shown in the drawing. Near the top area series of orifices, E, arranged parallel and one-half inch apart, andthe spaces between each of the series are about one-half inch apart. Thelines of the oriices and the upper edge which correspond are indicatedvby the numerals l 2 3 4 5. The lower part is simply a measureconstructed as heretofore described, and passes between the slide andthe breast-measure. B is of the form shown in the drawing. It has aseries of four holes, F, being nearly vertical, having lines runningacross each parallel with the upper edge, and one-half inch apart, theedge and lines being indicated by the numerals 5 6 .7 S 9. Beneath arefour horizontal lines, G, indicated by the numerals l 2 3 4. Theseindicate the measurement'from shoulder to shoulder across the back. Thelower part of this plate is simply a measure, and is arranged withreference to the breast-lneasure, precisely as that of the frontshoulder-plate.

Several sizes of the apparatus are necessary to adapt the same topersons of varying sizes.

The use' of the apparatus is to obtain correct measurements ot' thebody, and theapplication of the measurements to the diagram made on thecloth is similar to the usualmodes adopted by skilled cutters.

The manner of applying the apparatus to the person and noting the sizeson measurements, may be described thus: The shoulderplates arebent'toward each other, so as to embrace the shoulder, thebreast-measure being brought-close up under the arm and fastened .withthe button directly in front. The front and rear shoulder-plates arebrought up in contact with the arm at the shoulderjoint; then note themeasure for the breast and the points of intersection of the, two plateswith the breast-measure. The back shoulderplate is carried over thefront plate, and where the holes of the one meet the other, and

where the point of the rear plate meets the divisions on that plate.These points being noted, the position of the top shoulder-seam isdetermined. The band or measure D is put around the natural Waist, andthen is noted the measure of the waist and the two points of crossingthe front and rear shoulder-plates. Beneath the measures C and D isplaced the measure H on the'- central line of the back and extendingfrom the lower part of the neck downward. The intersection of this withthe breast and waist measure is noted, and this completes themeasurement for the body of the coat. The sleeve and sk irt measure istaken with the ordinary measuring-tape.

In preparing the diagram by the cutter the shoulder-plates are placed onthe cloth, as represented by the figure.

The ordinary tape-measure may be used, instead of the Waist and backmeasure, in connection With the other parts, but the metallic measuresare preferable, as they maintain their position more rigidly and theiredges preserve direct lines.

What I claim as my invention is 1. The front shoulder-plate A, having aseries of holes, E, and numerals on lines, as described, the rearshoulder-plate B having a series of holes, F, and corresponding linesand C, the Waist-measure D, and back-measure H,

substantially as and for the purpose specified.

JOHN S. CHARGE.

Witnesses:

B. ProKERi-NG, W. H. CLARK.v

